On our approach to the mountain, we struggled with high water. Having four legs, our horses were better adapted to the river crossings than we were.
Sharon makes a belay protected on a small rib of rock. Many pitches of loose rock protect the first ice field.
We climb numerous pitches of loose rock and fields of ice penitentes to reach the first chimneys.
Our bivi beneath the serac band was unappetizing. But we needed an early morning to negotiate the serac barrier.
The crux of the route was the serac band we climbed direct in order to avoid the extremely broken and dangerous ice sections to it's side.