Mountaineering

Carlos' climbing career spans five decades with major ascents on five continents. He draws from experience gained on forty-six expeditions to Canada, Alaska, Ecuador, Peru, Chile, Bolivia, Argentina, Uganda, Kenya, India, Pakistan, Bhutan, Nepal, China, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan, Russia and Tibet. In 1983, he climbed to the summit of Mt. Everest with the American team that made the first ascent of the Kangshung (East) Face from Tibet. It was Everest's last unclimbed face and its ascent established the mountain's most technically demanding route. Their climb has never been repeated. Carlos's climbing objective is to expand his abilities to scale difficult routes using small, efficient teams and lightweight tactics. In 1978, the American Alpine Club selected Carlos, at the age of 23, to be a member of the joint Soviet-American team hosted by the former Soviet Union's Mountaineering Federation to climb in the Pamir Range of Tajikistan in Central Asia. In 1980, he was invited to join the Spanish Aragon Himalayan Expedition where he and his Spanish partners made the first ascent of Baruntse's striking East Ridge (23,390 ft.) and the first American ascent of the mountain. In 1984, he led a six-member Canadian-American assault up the legendary West Pillar of Makalu (27,766 ft.), the world's fifth highest peak. Though only the third team to complete the difficult Pillar, they were forced to retreat 100 yards from the summit in bad weather. In 1985, during the bitter cold December period, he and his single American partner pioneered the first ascent of the awe-inspiring Northeast Face of Ama Dablam (22,349 ft.). This mountain, the sacred and spectacular peak in the Khumbu region of Nepal, has never had a repeat ascent by this route. In 1988, he organized and led the first successful American Expedition to Kangchenjunga (28,168 ft.), the world's third highest peak. While coordinating this ultra-light team on its fierce North Wall and Ridge, he became the first American to stand atop this colossal challenge. They reached their pinnacle working together as a Nepali, Austrian and Basque team. In April 1989, he succeeded in climbing the world's sixth highest peak, Cho Oyu (26,940 ft.), in a two-man, alpine style ascent of its elegant West Ridge. During the autumn of 1990, Carlos led a four member International Expedition to Dhaulagiri I (26,794 ft.). In reaching this renowned summit with his Lithuanian and and Nepali partners, he became the first North American to have climbed four of the world's fourteen peaks over 8000 meters (26,250 ft.). In April 1992, Carlos's British partner became sick in Base Camp just before their attempt of Nepal's majestic peak, Dorje Lhakpa (22,854 ft.). Despite this setback, he accomplished their goal by making the first solo ascent of this spectacular Himalayan mountain by its demanding West Ridge. In the year 1994, Carlos encountered one of his most difficult mountaineering decisions. Short of daylight, he and his Polish companion turned back just twenty minutes from the highest point of K2 (28,250 ft.), the planet's second highest peak. Two years later, Carlos returned to K2 to attempt the extremely daunting Chinese North Ridge. In August 1996, he reached the summit of this notorious objective with two Russian companions. He is one of only two North Americans to have succeeded on this ridge. Click Here In July 1997, Carlos led the Russian-American Nanga Parbat Expedition to success. He and his Russian partner became the first American and first Russian to climb this infamous 26,660 foot mountain (the world's ninth highest), in Pakistan. In 1998, Carlos led his same Russian friends to tackle the sheer, 5,200 foot North Face of Changabang (22,514 ft.) in the Indian Himalaya. After living 16 days on the vertical wall, the five-man team reached the summit together. Their ascent established one of the most difficult "big wall" routes yet achieved in the Himalayan Mountains. Click Here In the spring of 1999, Carlos and his American teammate climbed a new route on the West Face of the Peruvian peak, Siula Grande (20,813 ft.) - the mountain described in Simpson's book, Touching the Void. Click Here Later that year, they made the first ascent of the stunning Milarepa Peak (20,544 ft.), in the Rowaling Himalaya of Tibet, by its East Face. In August of 2000, Carlos explored the little known Ishkoman Valley in the Hindu Kush Mountains of Northwest Pakistan. Here, he and his Russian partner made the first ascent of the valley's most striking summit, Kampur Peak (18,041 ft.), by its Northwest Face. During the winter of 2002, Carlos joined Russian and Spanish friends to explore winter routes in the Open Caucasus project. Together they made bone chilling winter ascents of Mt. Elbrus (18,510ft.) and Peak Caucasus. Later that year, Carlos climbed with the American team attempting the notorious 22,821 foot peak, Sepu Kangri. On October 2nd, he and his partner made the first ascent of this coveted summit in the Nyanchen Tangla Mountains of Eastern Tibet. Click Here In 2003 Carlos and his American partners made the first ascents of two extreme alpine faces: in Alaska, on Gunnar Naslund’s East Face (12,600 ft.) and in Peru, on Pucahirca North’s West Face (19,835 ft.). Click Here Over 7 days in May, 2005, for the first time, Carlos and two Russian companions climbed the 5000 feet of extremely technical terrain on the North Face of Menlungtse in Tibet (23,559 ft.). However, the threesome abandoned their summit attempt when one member fell ill and they were forced to descend the dangerous wall they had just surmounted. In 2008 with his Spanish teammate from Catalonia, the pair succeeded on the ascent of the 2000 foot East Face of the Chilean mountain icon, the 8776 foot Cerro Castillo in Patagonia.  Today, Carlos continues to climb predominantly near his home in the Canadian Rockies of western Canada.  He is a highly experienced presenter, management consultant, and meeting facilitator. He applies his leadership experience in mountaineering to help organizations solve problems in guiding teams towards increased performance, and promoting organizational transformation through executive development.Click Here

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