After 20 hours and a miserable bivouac, we tackled the steepest ice of the route on day two.
Near the base of the West Face of Siulá Grande, a glacial plateau slightly above it offers a comfortable advanced camp location.
Mark Price carefully begins the descent along the exposed North Ridge of Siulá Grande. Yerupaja's huge Southeast Face lies in front of us.
Mark Price is quite at home, perched on his front points, during the first 9 pitches of steep but beautiful ice climbing.
Mark Price ascends one of the many ice pitches of ice on the lower half of the face.
The sunrise visible on the Southeast Face of Yerupaja from our biviouac on the West Face of Siulá Grande
I try and make due in the awkward bivouac of a crappy ledge we chop out of the ice next to the wall.
Mark uses ascenders to rapidly ascend our fixed line above our first bivouac.
Mark ascends my fixed line after a scary avalanche scours the route and causes rushing snow to sweep across my body for a minute as I hang on for dear life. I am terrified.
Mark is happily surprised when we discover the perfectly protected bivouac in a natual cave. it is underneath an enormous serac on the upper West Face which we pray will remain in place.
Mark ascends the rope as we tackle the last few hundred meters of steep, hard ice at the top of the Upper Couloir.
Just below the crest, I lead and Mark follows on last meters of the West Face leading directly to the summit of Siulá Grande.
From where we exit onto the Summit Ridge, the highest point is either where we are or at the end of the long ridge. Our altimeter shows no difference in altitude on either point.